Fash and mags have been pushing the thick brow for years. I remember seeing the first thick brow on a makeup poster in a chichi department store way back in 2003. The consumer rejected and ignored it, and the cosmetic companies not wanting to upset the frail wallets of their customer base, coyly played the "you put your left foot in" game for years to come.
Although the subtle thick brow campaign failed to convert us, it was successful in making us reassess the 70s inspired thin brow fashion of the late 90s and early 00s. Their ghost crept up on us ever so slowly retraining our eye to a new and bolder fashion. It enticed us to re-fashion the waif brow first into a slightly thicker shape, then into a more natural finish, whereby stylisation of brows slowly died out.
Let us fast forward to 2006. Runways, mags and cosmetic brand campaign put their proverbial left foot down and forcefully pushed for a defined, thick brow. Within one year this new brow became so well established by the fashion world that model agencies told their models to grow out their brows or risk losing work. Currently, the bushy, unkempt Brooke Shields brow, with wild inner tufts and large, flat base and tail with minimal inner arch lift is considered the
it brow.
If you've been blessed with thick brows, grow them out and flaunt them, as I predict this not to be a short lived fad, but a serious fashion trend that will become increasingly popular remaining with us for the next five to ten years. If you fear the change, then take a careful look at the above picture. Smoky eye makeup is rendered less harsh by rich brows, as it softens its severity by adding spacial, textural and colour competition, creating stronger plane to counteract the darkness of the eyeshadow.
The it brow - unkempt, unruly, untamed, unlit and sultry. Grow some bush today.
Most top makeup artists have now embraced the new brow. Bobbi Brown, the original Brook Shield brow forerunner of the 80s, is taking thick brows very seriously this time round, as well. Brown, has even gone to the extent of trimming the shot on the left in such a way as to frame whole photo, not just the model's face, making the brows the understated center piece. Bobbi adds weight to these brows by meticulously shading them in all the way to the very outer peripherals of the entire brow length (the model's natural brows are not this thick) with a shadow slightly lighter than the model's hair, and then using one shade slightly darker for the brow tails. The light to dark technique gives the illusion of length and volume by adding depth.
The hardcore
fashionista may want to take it one
avant-guard step up and make all of their brows at least a full shade darker than their hair by using a single, flat colour. This "power brow" is strong, bold, carnal and voluptuous. It empowers the face and the over-all image, while emitting a raw
fridaesque sensuality. If you think your face cannot handle its severity, then couple it with a powerful lipstick to create balance. In the picture to the right, a matte red lipstick, and matching dress, are balanced off with a set of overstated black-brown eyebrows. The result is stunningly potent.
If you're not brave enough for such a bold brow, there is another technique which is currently being utilised by many makeup artists so not to frighten the timid, and to keep the look more natural. Laura
Mercier has used this technique in her Polished Colour Collection, as seen on the left. A richly pigment shadow of the same colour and tone to the hair (or a shade lighter), is applied purposefully on only certain sections of the brows. To counteract the over groomed brow of the naughties, brow colour is not applied to the inner corners of the brows so to give the illusion of existing tufts, resulting in a look that seems to be less maintained, more natural and certainly less severe.
To help you achieve these looks I have set out a variety of products in varying textures, options which I use regularly .
For the days when I'm in hurry to get my makeup on, but I need to make an empowered and professional impression, I will not go past Paula's Choice
Browlist. Her colour choice is in desperate need of expansion, but the two available colours are first class It's softly pigmented, which renders it foolproof for makeup
noobs and klutz alike, its longevity is excellent as it doesn't smudge of fade, and its felt tip style translates to precise application.
Browlist can be purchased at
Paula's Choice for $9.95 US.
When I want to look like I'm not trying hard, and I'm limited time wise, I opt for the
MAC's doppelganger
Maybelline Define-A-Brow in a shade lighter than my brows. It's a super thin twist-up pencil that does not require sharpening, constantly maintaining a suitably precise application. This pencil comes in one of the largest colours selections I have ever seen, and is retailed at a competitive drugstore price.
Bobbi Brown Natural Brow Shaper retails at $19.00 US. It's a wonderful brow mascara with a sticky texture rich in hairspray like ingredients, giving brows one of the firmest holds around. The colour selection is excellent, and its triangular like shaped brush works amazingly well at controlling the application of the product.
For the ultimate "bitch brows" I recommend
Make Up For Ever Waterproof Eyebrow Corrector retailing at $18.90 EU. This product is not recommended to
nubcakes. The finished look is solid and stylised due to its concentrated pigmentation, and the fact that once dried it's extremely difficult to correct. It's smudge and waterproof, and the colour stays fresh throughout the day The colour range although, on the side of humble considering the pigmentation of this product, is stellar due the naturalistic tones.
A classic alternative that everyone should have in their makeup kit is
Nyx Eyebrow Cake Powder retailing at $3.00US. The colour range is excellent, and the duo arrangement makes the product versatile. The pigmentation concentration also allows this product to double up as liner (wet or dry) . A good and cheap alternative for those new to makeup or the budget conscious. With an expert hand when this product is finished off with some good old fashioned hairspray on a brow/tooth brush, the brows would be comparable to models in glossy mags.
The new kid on the block is an interesting product marketed by
Laura Mercier called
Brow Definer retailing at $20.00US . It's an innovative product that combines brow wax and gel liner ingredients. The result is a medium pigmentation concentration product which imparts a lovely natural finish. It applies easily and smoothly, and because of the wax ingredients , the product a
lso adheres to the hairs of your brows making them look thicker. The high wax content does render this product unsuitable for eye lining.
If you're a fan of sharpeners then one of the best old fashioned colour-in pencils on the market is the
Chanel Precision Brow Definer. A medium pigmented, powdery pencil with an excellent colour selection marketed at $28.00US.
MAC Brow Finisher is my product of choice for a naked look. Fast, non complicated, completely foolproof due to very low pigment concentration, minimalist approach to brows. Gloss your brows and off you go.
Most top makeup artists have now embraced the new brow. Bobbi Brown, the original Brook Shield brow forerunner of the 80s, is taking thick brows very seriously this time round, as well. Brown, has even gone to the extent of trimming the shot on the left in such a way as to frame whole photo, not just the model's face, making the brows the understated center piece. Bobbi adds weight to these brows by meticulously shading them in all the way to the very outer peripherals of the entire brow length (the model's natural brows are not this thick) with a shadow slightly lighter than the model's hair, and then using one shade slightly darker for the brow tails. The light to dark technique gives the illusion of length and volume by adding depth.
